Monday 18 May 2009

Anxious Designs


Pomp machismo, gaudy, shiny, sparkling and conspicuous fashion is exiting the stage (and not just in the world of fashion). Enter more demure, classic, understated pieces that possess a quiet but beautiful simplicity. From self-assured and cocky arrogance to humble, anxious, questioning and self-effacing, but highly talented designers (of all sorts).

It's time for the Alvy Singers' of the world to rise and shine. A case in point: Alber Elbaz, designer of the Paris fashion house Lanvin, overweight, inspired and riddled with self-doubt, has been whipping up light, airy, colorful and dream-like collections. Sincere, real and flawed - these inspirational phoenix-like figures may continue their ascent after a polished, overindulgent and artificial period. Great story.

And Elbaz, when designing a collection, starts with a story: for example a recent collection featured ribbons and was, for him, "like the story of the ties between people, between generations"...it is important to him that everything he makes has this kind of imaginary history, a Genesis myth.

Stories amidst uphill battles, doused in talent and relentless searches in a changed world (got my attention).

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